I mixed up the epoxy, added the sawdust, mixed well, and applied. One smooth coat over the entire exterior. Made exactly enough. There's really not much more to say.
(You can click on any picture on this blog to see a larger version.)








Then I flipped the whole thing back over and sanded the crap out of it. It's pretty much set for the final outside coat this afternoon.
And by "final" I mean "nowhere near final".And when you are ready for that final phase, remember that fibreglass and epoxy resin, augmented with assorted thickeners and enhancers, can adequately address any and all perceived deficiencies, aesthetic and otherwise.My biggest concern now is that I'm getting low on epoxy/hardener. I should have enough to re-coat the whole bottom and do the inside. But I'll need to get more before I can make changes and additions (like cutting the end of the boat and adding a transom.)
Above you see the first go at fiberglassing. I mixed four different batches of epoxy, each with a slightly different proportion of sawdust, hence the variegated color. I kind of like the different hues. After I get it sanded down and apply the covering coat, this should be somewhat evened out. (You can see the edges of fiberglass (white cloth) hanging down below the rubrails, towards the ground.) Yes, the pointy end in the foreground was glassed, too. It just had the least amount of sawdust mixed in to the epoxy so is a lighter color.)







You kind of do have to treat your over-large butt-jointed panels like antique glass eggs until they are assembled as a self-reinforcing whole. You might consider adding some trooping sticks to the panels to help with safe handling--long strips of scrap temporarily screwed across the joint.
If you used two or three long strips of your plywood, say 2" x 3', screwed on along the length of the panel, roughly centered on and perpendicular to the joint, you could conceivably leave them in place until the boat is finally put together. The screw holes can be filled later, when the beautification begins.
As you can see, it's very pliant - it's very much like regular fabric.


I read all postings on boat. Frankly I am at a loss with terminology. It all sounds so complicated and difficult. I think I have pics of u toms boat building. Will show when out here or maybe send if I can find. But I don’t think epoxy was available then so wood is just wood. But thought you might appreciate the task you (one person) took on when you see the army of men doing same. Job. I admire you talents and determination.


I'll try to make this quick so as to not be left behind: building outside is always better than building inside, even if conditions might suggest otherwise. And, after all, you're building a boat, not a chess set.Good point. Right now, the rain will hold off until around 9:00 tonight. Says Fred,
If the weather turns before the cure is complete, you can still carefully move the pieces to a sheltered location to allow the chemical process to finish at its own pace.That may be more challenging than you'd suppose, although I'm sure Fred's thought about it. I have two 8' x 28" pieces of plywood, end to end, with what feels like scotch tape holding them together. I think picking them up before it's rock-solid and the joint will bend, and it will be ruined.


I think the concerns about pre-tensioning your panels before final assembly, while not entirely irrelevant, might be a bit academic for a project of this nature. I think your focus should be the basic construction of the vessel--unclouded by the complicated considerations of idiosyncratic resin properties, the differing strength and flex patterns of various weaves and weights of fibreglass cloth, and the inherent variables of composite materials engineering applied to compound curves and fluid dynamics--eased, perhaps occasionally, with a lowball of Connemara Irish Single Malt.
To be blunt: build the wooden boat, then glass it. Enjoy the handmade process--the feel and shape of the wood as it becomes the essence of your boat--before you move on to the synthetic wrapper. And when you are ready for that final phase, remember that fibreglass and epoxy resin, augmented with assorted thickeners and enhancers, can adequately address any and all perceived deficiencies, aesthetic and otherwise.
Hey Guys,To which seedtick responds:
Follow this and then I want some comments on wheather this is right or wrong or just doesn't matter.
When you glass the panels before stitching, the glass on either side of the panel is relaxed, just laying there. When you bend the panel to stitch it togeather you wind up with the glass on one side under tension and the other side under compression. If you glass after stitching the boat togeather then the glass is just laying there netural in the shape of the boat. Any outside forces placed on the boat will give tension on one side and compression on the other side giving resistance to the forces applied.On a pre glassed panel what happens when an outside force is applied to the boat? Would the glassed after construction boat be stronger than the glassed before construction?
might be on to something Bob,Interesting. Ron then chimes in:
similar to a post tensioned concrete slab for your house - concrete under compression, steel cables under tension, already preloaded for new stresses and considerably stronger than conventional reenforced slabs.
Personally I think it would be stronger.So . . . I think this leads me to the conclusion that glassing the inside of the sidewalls before building might make them slightly stronger. The compressed glass on the inside would have an increased puncture strength. (And, when I'm completing my trans-oceanic trip, puncture strength will be very important.)
Inside is glassed ,and bent ,yep that glass is compressed.What happens when you hit a rock the outside takes the blow so puncture strength is important. The inside is braced because you try to strech the glass and cloth ,if you preglass and compress that it will take more puncture penitration to reach the point where the glass and cloth starts to strech.
Boy hope you can get thru the mud and understand what I just wrote.
So I went back to naval history (specifically the Royal Navy), and found that ships generally had an abbreviated description of the service to which the ship belonged, then a description of the vessel type, and then the name itself.
For example, HMS Frigate Boadicea would belong to His Majesty's Service (i.e., in the Royal Navy), would be a frigate-class ship (38 guns), and be called the Boadicea.
Privateers, which were ships licensed by the King to attack enemy vessels but were not part of the navy proper, were signified "HMHV": His Majesty's Hired Vessel.
I have taken that to the next (logical) step to come up with the designation "PV": Private Vessel.
As for the class my boat belongs in, I don't know that there is one: It's no doubt a pirogue (flat-bottomed, double-ended canoe), but it will eventually sport a single-mast square sail and, perhaps, a transom. I doubt any such vessel has ever existed in the history of boat building.
So I determined it is a new class, the Merganser class. This is in tribute to Fred, in gratitude for all of his invaluable help on this project. (Fred had proffered the name "Merganser" or "Smew" for the boat, when I was casting about for names.)
A merganser is a fish-eating seaduck, although almost all mergansers live in and on rivers rather than the sea. While a Ruddy Duck is not technically in the merganser family, I thought it was close enough.
So, the offical name of The Boat is PV Merganser Ruddy Duck.